Jewish Sites of Interest in Turkey

The following Jewish sites are of greatest significance to the history of the Spanish and Portuguese Jews who arrived in the Ottoman Empire during and after 1492, and to the present day community life of their descendants.

ISTANBUL
The Galata Tower in Beyoglu is of prime interest to Jewish tourists. The neighborhood has bustling street life, the synagogues have great historical and artistic value, and all sites are within easy walking distance of one another. The Jewish presence in Galata began in Byzantine times when this was a walled city separate from Constantinople. Galata was inhabited and ruled by the Genoese, who had among them numerous Jewish families. As recently as a few decades ago, the Galata quarter rang with the songs and street-game chants of Jewish children speaking Judeo Spanish. Today most of Istanbul's Jews live in more desirable residential quarters, though Galata's synagogues are still of great importance to the city's Jewish community. Sites in Galata include the office of the Chief Rabbinate, the Neve Shalom, Ashkenaz and Italian synagogues, the Zülfaris Synagogue Museum, Jewish elementary and high schools and Kamondo staircase.

For walking tours, Galata is easily accessible from Taksim-area hotels by means of the new Istiklal Caddesi streetcar, which runs from Taksim Square along Istiklal Caddesi. Travel on the streetcar costs a fraction of a dollar. This avenue the former Grand Rue de Pera, is lined with historic diplomatic posts, handsome old houses, fashionable boutiques and upscale restaurants and lounges.

Tünel Square, a potential starting point for tours, is of interest in itself. One finds here the upper terminus of Galata's little two-station subway train, built by French engineers in 1875. Just off the square at the beginning of Galipdede Caddesi is the Galata Mevlevi Tekkesi, a former monastery of the Whirling Dervishes, which now serves as a museum of Ottoman calligraphy.

The office of the Chief Rabbinate, Abdullah Yeminici Sokagi No:23, two minutes walk from Tünel Square, has been here since early this century. As the building houses working offices there is of little interest for tourists to see except the exterior.

Neve Salom Synagogue, Büyük Hendek Caddesi No:67, midway between the Galata Tower and Sishane Square, is less than ten minutes' walk downhill from Tünel Square and / or the Chief Rabbinate. This is one of the largest synagogues city inaugurated on March 25, 1951. It's designed and decorated in a modern style and used for major functions of the community such as weddings bar-mitzvahs and funerals.

The Italian Synagogue, Sair Ziya Pasa Sokagi at Laleli Çesme Sokagi, is only a short walk downhill from Neve Salom. It was founded in the 1880s by Austrian and Italian Jews living in Istanbul who, because of factional disputes within the community, placed themselves under the protection of the Italian ambassador. The synagogue's Gothic-like façade and marble staircase are worth seeing. The interior is appealing, harmonious, and well preserved with double hanging arches in the balcony, a deep dome with stars and stained glass windows , and Turkish carpets on the floor. After the Italian Synagogue, the next point of interest is the Galata Tower, less than five minutes' walk uphill. The tower was originally the high-point in the Genoese fortifications which protected the town of Galata during Byzantine and early Ottoman times. In the nineteenth century as the population of Galata spread outside these walls, the tower was rebuilt and used as a fire watchman's post. In the 1970s restoration and modernization gave it a new function as an observatory, restaurant and nightclub.

The Ashkenaz Synagogue. Yüksek Kaldirim No :37, on a steep pedestrian street descending the hill from the Galata Tower to Karaköy, is ten minutes' walk uphill, then down, from the Italian Synagogue. The façade of the building inaugurated in 1900, is especially imposing, with three oriental arches and octagonal rosette windows. Inside the floors are of marble, the lofty dome is painted with stars and elaborately-worked ark, a dark wood, blends eastern European and Arabesque styles. The synagogue is well-kept and attractive.

From the Ashkenaz Synagogue a short walk up steep stairs is necessary to reach Camekan Sokagi, which descends steeply to the Kamondo Staircase, a graceful curved double staircase joining the lower end of Camekan Sokagi to the thoroughfare of Bankalar Caddesi (also called Voyvoda Caddesi). The staircase was built in the nineteenth century on the order of the Kamondos, the Jewish community's most prosperous family.

From the staircase, it's a few minutes walk downhill to the Zülfaris Synagogue facing Karaköy Square. The Zülfaris, dating from 1671, was the main venue for weddings and funerals until the construction of Neve Salom.

Balat
This is another of the squares in which Jews were settled after their expulsion from Spain, enlarging the community which had lived here since Byzantine times. Today Balat is a working -class district on the shores of the Golden Horn. Though it once had as many as nineteen synagogues, only two of importance remain, the famous Ahrida, and the neighboring Yanbol. The site of a Jewish school is close by, and Or ha -Hayim Jewish Hospital is several hundred meters to the northwest in walking distance.

Most famous of Istanbul's old Synagogues is the Ahrida Synagogue, also called the Okrida, Kürkçü Çesme Sokagi No:9 The Ahrida and neighboring Yanbol are said to take their names from the towns in Macedonia from which their founding congregations migrated in Byzantine times.

The Ahrida Synagogue in Istanbul is a glorious example of the rich cultural life of the Jews of Turkey. In fact, to attest to its importance in Jewish history , the Ahrida has its rightful place among the major synagogues of the world.

The oldest of Istanbul's 16 synagogues, located in the neighborhood of Balat, the Ahrida was in use for more than 500 years before it was closed in July 1991 so renovations could begin. The project has concentrated on structural repair as well as restoration of the synagogue's façade.

A remarkable feature of the Ahrida is its 'bima' (the pulpit), which is in the shape of Noah's Ark. The intricate design is something quite special, and is one of the most impressive, and memorable aspects of the synagogue.

The restoration project, overseen by architect Hitsrev Tayla, completed in 1992. Tayla, a professor at Marmara University and former director of the Architectural Survey and Restoration Department of the Ministry of Culture, is a specialist in historic restoration. He is best known for his design of the Kocatepe Mosque in Ankara, loosely modeled on the Selimiye Mosque in Edirne. Thought to have been built in the early 15th century the Ahrida was badly damaged by a fire in the late 17th century, which may even have destroyed it completely. The exact year of the fire is unknown, but an imperial 'ferman' (decree) dated 1694 calls for the rebuilding of the synagogue, which was done at the time in the Baroque style of the 'Tulip Period'. Although Tayla studied the Ahrida for over a year before his team has began the restorative work, there were no old drawings or photographs which could be used as guides. It is therefore the Baroque appearance that Tayla reconstructed.

Yanbol Synagogue, Düriye Sokagi No:16 directly opposite Kamis Sokagi, is less than a block from the Ahrida. The Yanbol's interior is similar in appearance to the Ahrida before restoration, though the decor here seems more unified. Paintings in the dome are said to portray are Macedonian town of Yanbol.

While in the Balat area the important Byzantine sites should be visited:
- The Kariye Museum (Church of the Holy Savior in Chora)
- Famous for its dazzling thirteenth century Byzantine mosaics
- The Tekfur Sarayi or Palace of Constantine Porphyrogenitus, a Byzantine work dating from 1300s along the city's Byzantine defense walls.

Hasköy
Once a favored residential area, much of the Golden Horn's eastern shore is now devoted to shipbuilding and other industrial and naval activity. Hasköy, a district on this shore, has the Jewish Home for the Aged, the Kamondo mansion, and a large Jewish cemetery which includes the Kamondo Mausoleum. The Kamondo Mansion, on the Golden Horn is an imposing stone house- almost a small palace - once owned by the wealthy and influential Kamondo family.

The last of the Kamondos donated this mansion to the Turkish government. It now serves as the headquarters of the Turkish Navy's northern naval region. It is not open to visitors, but can be seen from the street.

In the neighborhood is a delightful Ottoman pavilion Aynalikavak Kasri. With its 'Lale Devri' (Tulip Period) decoration and Ottoman furnishings, the pavilion gives a good idea of what life was like for the Ottoman ruling class in the eighteenth century when Hasköy was a thriving Jewish neighborhood.

Sisli
Sisli Beth Israel Synagogue, Efe Sokagi No:4, several blocks south of Sisli Square, is a modern building of central importance to the present-day Jewish community of Istanbul. Once a garage, the site was purchased and converted to a synagogue in 1952. Its long barrel-vaulted 'nave' with two side aisles reminds some of church architecture. It should be visited not for its historical or artistic importance, but as the center of the city's Jewish life today.

Kadiköy
Hemdat Israel Synagogue set in the quiet residential area of Yeldegirmeni Mahallesi on Izzettin Sokagi at Haydarpasa, was constructed in 1899.

The interior of the synagogue is a large, harmonious space rich with arabesque painting and a marble arch, all lit by large crystal chandeliers. On the north side of the synagogue is a lovely garden.

Kuzguncuk
Northeast of Üsküdar on the eastern shore of the Bosphorus lies Kuzguncuk. Two synagogues, the Merkez Synagogue (Icadiye Caddesi No:9) and the Virane Synagogue (Yakup Sokagi No:8) here played an important part in the life of the Judeo-Spanish community in Istanbul. Today there are heavily used only on holidays and special occasions, though they are customarily open for worship on the Sabbath. In the close vicinity of Kuzguncuk, on the shores of the Bosphorus stands the Beylerbeyi Palace, a small summer palace built on the orders of the Ottoman Sultan Abdulaziz (1861-1876).

IZMIR

Through much of Ottoman Izmir's history, it had a thriving Jewish community much larger than that of today. Though the community is smaller now, it is no less active. There were once nine synagogues in use along Havra Sokagi (Synagogue Street) in Izmir's Bazaar; three are in service today.

As Izmir's colorful Bazaar is one of the highlights of a visit to the city, it might be preferable to begin a tour with a walk through the bazaar. This would serve as a good introduction to the life of the bazaar of which Havra Sokagi is an integral part. Turning into Havra Sokagi from Anafartalar Caddesi, one comes first to the Senora Synagogue, 927 Sokagi No:77, almost two centuries old. It may take its name from Dona Gracia Nasi, Duke Josephs Nasi's mother-in-love and aunt, who was known as La Sonera, and who endowed many synagogues in the Ottoman lands. The Senora is the most active of the remaining synagogues on Havra Sokagi, open every morning. It's a simple bur pleasant and interesting building with obvious historic value.

Next along Havra Sokagi is the Kados Mizrahi Synagogue, 927 Sokagi No: 73, open only on Saturday mornings. A short distance farther along is the Salom (Aydin) Synagogue.

Alsancak
As in Istanbul, this city's Jewish community has largely moved to the more desirable residential quarters. The Karatas Synagogue and modern Alsancak Synagogue demonstrate his trend. The modern quarter of Alsancak is among Izmir's most prestigious addresses. The Musta Bey Synagogue is a new building constructed to serve those who now live in this fashionable neighborhood, north of Izmir International Fairgrounds.

Sardis
Ancient Sardis was the capital of the Lydia whose most famous king was Croesus (560-546 B.C.), famed for this wealth. Croesus was the first monarch to mint coinage, introducing this useful invention to the world. During its heyday as a Roman city, Sardis had a very large and prosperous Jewish community which may have been established here in much earlier times.

The ruins of Sardis lie less than 90 km (56 miles) east of Izmir, an hour's drive along the main highway to Salihli and Ankara, through rich fields of sultanas (grapes), figs and tobacco. The ruins of Jewish interest lie just off the north side of the highway in the village of Sart-mustafa. On the south side, one kilometer from the village, are the impressive ruins of the Temple of Athena.

Though Sardis plays no role in the history of Jewish immigrants who came to the Ottoman Empire from Spain and Portugal, it is of interest because of its extremely large and rich Roman synagogue. In ancient Sardis, Jews held seats on the city council and important offices in the roman civil administration. Remains of the beautiful and richly-appointed synagogue dating from the 200s A.D. have been uncovered and restored; much of the funding for restoration came from American Jewish individuals, congregations and philanthropies.

Visitors to the site approach the synagogue along the Marble Way, a main street lined with shops, many of which were owned by Jewish merchants and artisans, as signs indicate.

Beside the synagogue is the restored façade of the Roman gymnasium, or school, a very impressive two-story structure.

On the south side of the highway, visitors should not miss the opportunity to see the remains of the great Temple of Artemis, of gigantic proportions.

The long history of Jewish communities in turkey could be an example for world peace and understanding. It speaks well for the Turkish majority population as well as for the Jewish community as one of many minority groups over the centuries. The Jewish people of Turkey have certainly played a major role in bringing truth to the Turkish motto adopted recently, 'Peace in the World, Peace at Home'. A visit to these sites will provide you with a new understanding of the 'brotherhood of man'.